For a few weeks every September the whole of Westfield smells like Concord grapes, and the trucks run day and night down out of the vineyards. N Mathews Enterprises Inc keeps the lawns going straight through it — the late cuts of the season, the trimming, then the leaf work that carries on into November. A yard mowed in the cooling evenings of early fall holds its stripes for days, and the dew picks them out again each morning. There is craft in knowing when to stop cutting, too: the final pass short and clean so nothing mats under the snow. Westfield, Portland, Brocton and Mayville all fall inside the territory.