West Winfield sits high on the ridge road, where hayfields fall away toward the Unadilla headwaters and the smell of a fresh cutting carries a mile. Indy Acres Beef Farm brings a farmer's eye to lawn work here — mowing on a straight line, edging where turf meets gravel, and clearing the leaves once the maples let go in October. A yard that looks tended from the road is worth the early start: stripes laid even, corners true, the bank by the mailbox trimmed close. Summer mornings begin early in this county, and grass cut before the heat sets in keeps its color all week. Around West Winfield, Bridgewater, Unadilla Forks and the farms along Route 20, a small dooryard gets the same steadiness a big field would.