Midnight in January, out toward Brownville and Dexter, and the snow comes across the flats with nothing at all to slow it down. Jessman's Snow Removal is out in it — driveways cut open, turnarounds widened so a car can actually turn around, banks pushed back before they become walls. Walks and steps are shoveled and treated so the first trip out in the morning is an ordinary one. The lake keeps making more, so the work goes in rounds, storm after storm, until the piles finally start to sag in March. Coming home to a plowed drive at the end of a long night is worth every hour of it.