Lake Ontario writes the winter here. A band sets up offshore, drifts inland after midnight, and by three in the morning Ridge Road is a white tunnel with a single set of tracks in it — usually the plow's. JMF Landscaping LLC runs snow removal through those hours: driveways opened, walks cleared down to the concrete, salt laid where the ice wants to set. There is a plain pride in pulling away from a house at four a.m. knowing the seven o'clock departure will be easy. Greece, Charlotte, Irondequoit and the north-side streets get the same pass, storm after storm.