A nor'easter comes up the coast and finds Riverhead sideways: wind off the Sound pushing snow over the Baiting Hollow bluffs, drifting the driveways that face north while the ones tucked behind pines stay nearly bare. Bellflower Landscaping runs the plow through exactly those hours — three in the morning, headlights full of white, the same route worked storm after storm until the town is open again. Drives get pushed back to the pavement, steps and walkways get cleared by hand, and salt goes down where the daytime melt will glaze over by evening. The aim is a small and excellent one: someone comes out at seven with a coffee and the car simply goes. That is the whole of it, repeated every time the sky closes in.