This corner of Monroe County is orchard country — apple rows running off toward the horizon, white in May, bare and geometric by December. D&S Landscaping works among them, mowing and trimming and running spring and fall cleanups through the green months, then plowing driveways, opening walks and salting once the rows go skeletal and the wind turns. There is a pleasure in the contrast: the soft blur of a freshly cut lawn in June, the hard clean line of a plowed drive on a gray afternoon. Ogden hands you both, sometimes within a few weeks of each other at the shoulders of the year. The job is to be equally good at each.