South of Buffalo the county lets go of its sidewalks, and North Collins opens into hayfields and produce rows running flat to the horizon on both sides of Route 62. Amish Valley Sheds LLC keeps lawns out here — mowing, trimming, edging, and the cleanups that bracket the growing season at either end. A farmhouse yard cut in even passes has a plain rightness to it, the line where turf meets the gravel drive drawn straight enough to sight down. Thunder builds over these fields most summer afternoons, so the work goes out in the cool of the morning while the grass still holds its dew. By the time the roadside stands set out their first baskets, the yards along the road are already tidy.