Dawn east of Montgomery, the orchard rows still gray, dew heavy enough to soak a boot right through. One Man And A Mower starts there — one truck, one mower, one lawn at a time, cut and edged and trimmed without hurry. There is something plainly honest about a job where the same hands do every part of it and nobody has to be told twice. Cleanups get loaded, walks get blown off, and the gate gets latched on the way out. Around Montgomery and the roads toward Walden and Maybrook, that's the whole operation, and it's enough.