Toward Stokes the road runs between hedgerows and old fence lines, and every so often a lawn opens out of the woods, sudden and bright. LEE'S LAWN SERVICE cuts those — mowing, trimming, edging, and leaf removal when the hardwoods on the hill turn loose in October. Oneida County summers are green and humid and quick to grow a yard past its owner's patience, which is exactly when a mower on schedule earns its keep. There is a rhythm to the route: the same properties, the same week, the same sweep of the walk afterward. By dusk the trailer is loaded and a row of yards looks the way it was always meant to look.