The Roeliff Jansen Kill runs low and clear through the Hillsdale hayfields in June, and for a month the whole valley smells like cut grass. Baxter Lawn & Snow spends that stretch mowing — country lawns that run out to stone walls, dooryards under sugar maples, edges trimmed back off gravel drives. Columbia County lawns are wide, so straight passes matter and the finish shows from a long way off. When the heat backs off in September the growth slows and the leaves start, and the fall cleanup takes each yard down to bare, breathing grass. There is a plain pride in a mowed field-edge lawn that looks like it belongs to the hills around it.