Winter arrives in Neptune City sideways, off the water and across Route 35, and the work starts long before the traffic signals begin their blinking. A&P Landscaping plows and clears driveways and walks so the first car out of the borough has an open path to the highway. Come April the same route turns green, and mowing, edging and trimming begin again on the small squared lots between the highway and the river. There is a particular satisfaction in a driveway cut clean to its corners and a lawn run in straight lines down a narrow yard. Neptune City is a mile of streets that all know each other, and A&P works them the way you would work your own block.