Old US-12 runs west out of Brooklyn between the moraines, and on a January morning it is the first dark line drawn across a white county. Awesome Lawn and Snow LLC works the drives and walks that feed into it, so the coffee is still hot when a car backs out onto clear pavement. Come May the same hills go loud with green and the work turns to mowing, trimming and the plain, exact edge along a driveway apron. In the Irish Hills the ground never lies flat for long, which makes a level cut something you earn one pass at a time. Snow or grass, the reward is identical: a place that reads as cared for from the road.