Around Stockton the farmsteads sit back from the road behind a windbreak, lawn on one side and hay ground on the other. Nadig Farms mows those wide yards and the smaller ones in town alike, keeping the grass down, the fence lines trimmed and the drive edges holding their shape. Where the mowing runs long, dusk arrives with barn swallows cutting low over the newly cut ground. Twice a year the big clearings come around — winter's leavings off the yard in March, the leaf drop in November — so the place looks squared away either side of the cold. It is plain work, and it makes a farm look like somebody is home.