Saturday morning in Rafter J smells like cut grass and river air, and it is a smell this town earns, because green up here takes work. Durango Lawns does the plain rounds that make it happen — mowing, string trimming, cutting the border along walks and driveways, and hauling away everything that comes with it. Yards from Bodo out to the south end run on the same steady schedule, so no lawn ever gets away from itself. Grass cut on time simply looks different: denser, level, holding its color under a sky that shines three hundred days a year. That is the entire ambition, and it turns out to be enough.