At four in the morning the lights along Interstate 10 make Quartzsite look like a harbor, and the air is finally cool enough to breathe deep. Love's Travel Stop starts the route about then in the hot months, mowers running while the dew is still down and the pavement is dark. Edges are cut against curbs and islands, the string trimmer works every post and sign base, and clippings are collected instead of scattered. Come sunrise the grass is level, the walks are swept, and the day can do whatever it likes. There is real satisfaction in handing a place back better than the night found it.